The laboratory is the crucible of Calicut’s activity, where shapes, imagined and designed by Calicut’s team, come to life.
Here, with artisans’ techniques, the prototypes of Calicut’s collections are crafted. The individual pieces are unique and unrepeatable and each technique spawns jewels that are different in style and form.
In “lost wax” casting, a prototype in wax is created by modeling or sculpting either sheets or tubes of meltable and compact wax that is ideal for carving. The prototype is then cast in metal or sometimes rubber in order to produce other models. The metal is then refined and assembled with the other elements, if necessary, with a welding torch. Finally the stones are mounted with a high quality of craftmanship that has its roots in the techniques of fine jewelry making (such as embossing, bead setting, prong setting).
Instead, with the “rolling and wire drawing” process, the goldsmith begins by casting small metal ingots, which are then reduced to sheets and wires that vary in thickness and size. This technique allows the goldsmith to make every single part of the piece, assembled using a welding torch. This technique is ideal when making complex geometric shapes and using different colors of gold in the same object. Tools such as files, hammers, and upholstery are used, necessary for the handcrafting of an object .
In the “flame” technique, thin gold plates are melted with the help of a concentrated flame to create forms that give the eye the impression of sculpture.
These are Calicut’s techniques: the mastery remains a secret. And secrets, as always, are created to charm and live to amaze.